WILDFLOWER SEED
Native grass and wildflower seed germinate best with some assistance.
1. Use a metal rake to break up the surface of the soil to create a better seedbed before spreading seed.
2. Using a misting nozzle moisten the area you plan to seed.
3.
Broadcast the seed mix over the area. For fine seed you may want to mix ½ seed with ½ sand and broadcast this over your prepared area to help with even distribution.
If you are seeding on a slope, seed a bit heavier on the highest area.
4. Water the seed area with the misting nozzle.
5. Cover the seed with a 1” layer of bulky leaves, coarse mulch or locally produced chippings. These can be obtained in Prescott by calling APS (928-776-4700 -- ask for vegetation management). Chippings are ideal to add as seed-cover. They cool and retain moisture in the soil,
and will break down and enrich it as well.
Mulching will also help prevent weeds.
6. Using the misting nozzle or a sprinkler, water area again until the chippings layer is thoroughly soaked.
If you are planting in the dry spring months or before monsoon season, providing supplemental water to keep the area moist will help seed germination, and will help tiny new plants to establish their roots.
7. Ideal seeding time is in the fall. You can also plant before monsoons arrive. If seed has a hard coat you may wish to scarify the seed before planting.
TREES, SHRUBS, PERENNIALS and GRASSES
from containers
1. Dig the hole for your plant three times the width and a little deeper than the root ball.
2. Soak the hole before planting. Water should drain completely within a few hours at the most. If water does not drain well, many natives will not tolerate the location.
3. Carefully tap the plant out of the container keeping the root ball intact.
4. Use a trowel or other tool to gently break up the edges of the root ball. This will allow for quicker root establishment.
5. Although it is best to use native soil, if your soil is very poor you may wish to add up to ¼ part of compost or mulch to the backfill. This will create a transition zone between the nursery soil and the soil on your site.
6. Plan to leave a slight depression around the plant to hold water (3 times the full width of your hole). This holds water better and is more attractive than creating a mounded ring around your plant.
7. If your plant is on a slope, create an “eyebrow” below the plant, and extending out on each side of the plant. The eyebrow should extend out 3’ on either side of the plant to catch down-slope drainage and funnel it to the root system.
8. Make sure to mulch around your plant: use chippings, bark, stone or other toppings to hold water in the soil, and keep the root zone cooler. CAUTION: do not put mulch close to the stem of succulents, they cannot tolerate this moisture.
AUTOMATED IRRIGATION SYSTEMS
New plantings including those using NATIVE PLANTS will need supplemental water for about the first 2-4 years to establish a vigorous root system. We recommend that plants be watered with a DRIP IRRIGATION system. This method will use less water and distributes water most efficiently to the root ball, promoting quicker establishment. Remember that plants will always be more attractive and healthier with some supplemental watering – especially in May, June and July.
Shrubs: On larger shrubbery, use three 1 gallon drip emitters placed in a triangle at the edge of the root ball. If the plant is on a slope, use pressure compensating emitters, and place 2 of the emitters on the uphill side of the root ball to allow for water to soak through the root zone.
Smaller shrubs, groundcovers and perennials: You may choose to use irrigation line with in-line emitters. These come with the emitters spaced 12", 18" or 24". Irrigating in this manner will lay down a uniform water layer to quickly and thoroughly water new plantings.
Trees: Use ½” diameter, in-line emitters at drip-line, 18” on center, in loops around new trees. Loop should be placed within 3” of root ball’s outside edge. After two growing seasons, expand the loop to reflect the drip-line (straight down from the outermost edge) of the canopy.
Native Grass Lawn: Use in-line emitter dripline 12" on center in pattern. This eliminates surface evaporation loss, sprinkler problems, and allows flexible design shapes and puts water where needed -- at the root zone.
